As winter approaches there are a two critical issues that need to be taken into account before the freeze begins. First it is essential to prevent water on the boat from freezing, and second to change the oil and oil filter so that the engine has clean oil for the 6 months on land.
In addition to these two essential items there are a series of other smaller issues that should also be addressed. Beneath we list Prairie Gold’s winterization Checklist, together with comments, should it be of use to you.
Group 1: Prevent Freezing of water systems
a) Empty all water tanks to the bilge and let the bilge pump out the water. Importantly, turn of the water heater and empty. (In the next step one will need to flush through antifreeze. To reduce the volume necessary, we installed a bypass valve between the cold water input and the hot water output so that it was not necessary to fill the whole hot water tank).
b) Add ½ to ¾ gallon of anti-freeze (pink RV antifreeze available at West Marine) to each cold water tank. We add 2gallons to the mid tank to flush through all pipes. Our choice of the mid-tank is because its filling port is adjacent to our finger pier and provides easy access.
c) Select the bow, then the stern and then mid-tank at the water selection station beneath the sink. With each, pump the water through from the tank to the outlet in the bilge. With the bow and stern tank we flush through until antifreeze it empty. Finally select the mid-tank and flush antifreeze through to bilge until there is a good flow.
d) Select each water outlet system – faucet in galley, bathroom and don’t forget the cockpit shower head as well as the bathroom shower. With each select cold water system and flush until pink liquid exits the faucet. Then switch to hot for the same. (Note the antifreeze wont be hot because the heater is turned off and we used a hot water tank by-pass)
e) Make sure that sufficient antifreeze passes through the sinks and shower to fill the exit to the through hull. Close through hulls afterwards.
f) After emptying the holding tank of the head, it is necessary to use antifreeze throughout this system. With the raw water intake through-hull closed remove the tubing from the through-hull. Either insert a funnel into the tube, or dip the tube into a container of antifreeze and pump the head. The purpose is to eject all raw water out of the system into the holding tank as well as to get antifreeze into the holding tank. Note because the temperatures are cold it can be difficult to remove the tubing from a through-hull. I recently heard of the tip (after I winterized) to use a hair dryer to warm the tubing. I haven’t tried it, but it seems a useful idea.
g) Empty and clean the fridge and pour antifreeze into the fridge floor and pump out.
h) AC/Heating system. On our boat we have an A/C heating system and need to winterize this too. To do so, with the throughull closed, detach the tubing from the throughhull, insert a funnel and have someone turn on the AC system. Pour pink antifreeze into the funnel and allow the AC system to fill the lines with antifreeze. Once antifreeze is leaving the boat turn off the AC system, re-attach the tubing to the through-hull and tighten the hose-clamps.
i) Winterize the bilge. From the previous procedures on the boat it will be clear that the bilge system will already contain anti-freeze. Don’t forget to use the manual bilge pump too so that this system can be filled with antifreeze.
j) FINAL NOTE – It is not a problem to leave antifreeze in the pipes. It might gel in the winter, but will not burst pipes. Similarly, its also not necessary to make sure everything is filled with antifreeze. Rather the purpose of the antifreeze is to rid the system of either fresh or raw water so that they don’t freeze.
Group 2: Engine Treatment (based on our Yanmaer YM30 Diesel engine)
a) Change the engine oil and filter: used oil contains corrosives that will damage the engine over a winter. Thus we need to change oil. This is a simple three step process.
b) Preparation - Warm the engine (10-15 mins of idling sufficient) so that the filter is hot to touch. Place oil absorbent cloths under the engine.
c) Remove oil and filter – After the engine has been turned off remove the dipstick and insert a tube, to the bottom of the engine, that is connected to a pumping system. As one pumps (either manual or via battery power) resulting negative pressure in the tank sucks oil out of the engine. Take a little time to ensure that all oil has dripped to the bottom of the engine and that you have cleared as much as possible from the engine. Subsequently, take a large ziplock bag around your hand and unscrew the oil filter. On our engine Yanmar (3YM30) the oil filter is positioned sideways. Thus when one removes the filter, oil pours out of the filter. With the zip-lock bag around the filter it is possible to capture this oil, then lock the bag ready for disposal along with the oil.
d) Attach filter and add oil. – First coat the gasket of the new filter with new oil. Apply oil with your finger tip. Screw on the filter, hand tight only is sufficient. Add oil to the engine. IMPORTANT Do not over fill. Turn on the engine to circulate the oil, then turn off and check for leaks (especially around the filter). The filter will now contain some oil and the oil level may have dropped at the dipstick a little. Refill if necessary. As long as there are no leaks, the oil change is complete.
e) Treat water system with anti-freeze – Like many inboard diesel engines ours uses an external raw water system to cool an internal system. It is necessary to purge the sea water from this external raw water cooling system and replace with anti-freeze. With the through-hull closed remove the raw water tubing from the through-hull and dip into a bucket containing 2 gallons of freshwater. Turn on the engine and allow the engine to suck the freshwater through. As the water level approaches the bottom of the bucket add about 1.5 gallons of pink antifreeze. Have someone watch the raw water output at the side of the boat. When it turns pink turn off the engine. At this point I re-attach the tubing and tighten the hose-clamps, just to ensure that I don’t forget in the spring.
f) Remove the air filter and insert paper towel to stop wet air getting to the engine.
g) Cover air inlets to air conditioning and engine
h) Cover AC and engine outlets with tape.
Group 3 Sails and other items on the boat
a) We clear as much as we can off of the boat prior to the winter. Remove food, and clean as much as possible. Leave doors and drawers open to reduce the probability of mildew development.
b) Removing sails is best done in low wind conditions and after a period during which the sails can dry. Our goal is to have Prairie Gold over to Quincy, where she is hauled out, by November 1st. Thus 10 days prior we watch for a weather window where there can have been some dry period and where winds will be low.
c) After taking down the sails folding can be difficult. We read a tip to use Irwin Quick Grip Clamps (available from Home Depot) to clamp at the luff of the sail as we fold. Our strategy is to fold the luff, and repeatedly clamp until folded. Then while holding the luff in a constant position work from the clew of the sail performing folding. Although at first it seems somewhat confused, it really does come together nicely. A tip we have learned is to fold all sails the same. First fold as discussed, then roll up from the luff to the clew. In this manner in spring we know that the clew is exposed and we roll out the sail from stern to bow and the sail is then ready to be raised.
d) DON’T FORGET TO TAKE OUT THE SPEED TRANSDUCER BEFORE HAVING YOUR BOAT HAULED OUT. The straps on the boat lift are likely to damage your speed transducer if you leave it in the hull. Prior to haul out, remove the speed transducer and replace with the blank.
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